Sunday, October 23, 2016

A Lightbulb Moment!

While I was online researching Brambleberry's Sustainable Palm Oil, I was sidelined by a new recipe ... the pictures of their Orange Poppy Seed Salt Scrub caught my attention ... so I went and looked. In my review of the ingredients, I saw that potassium cocoate is used as a surfactant ... I don't have this ingredient ... and I got a niggle in the back of my mind, so I clicked the ingredient link to go check it out. They charge $10/lb for potassium cocoate.
More research led me to the information that this ingredient is a plant based foaming/cleansing agent (a surfactant) ... and is (in the simplest of terms) nothing more than a liquid soap made from 100% coconut oil with 0% SF. The lightbulb came on when I realized that I can not only make this ingredient for far less than $10/lb (plus shipping) ... but that I was already planning on making it due to having run out of laundry soap.
Anyone who has ever made liquid soap can make this ingredient ... along with any other liquid soap saponified oil (potassium olivate, potassium castorate, potassium tallowate, etc) called for in recipes that use a foaming agent.
Brilliant.
If you'll please excuse me, I have some liquid soap to go make.
=) C

Friday, June 3, 2016

Festival Face Paint

It's Festival Season!  
Time to experiment with Colorants and Pigments and create your own Silky-Smooth Face Paint. It’s fun to make, easy to clean up, and safe for kids and adults alike!

Equipment You’ll Need:
  • Measuring cup
  • Measuring spoons
  • Mixing bowls
  • Whisk
Ingredients:
  • 4 oz Carrier Oil (any light oil, like jojoba or fractionated coconut oil, will work)
  • 1 oz Colorant or Pigment (make sure it's skin safe ... micas or oxides work well)
  • ¼ cup Arrowroot Powder (use less if colorant is an oxide)
  • 1 tbsp Vitamin E oil
Customizing:

 STEP 1
Add 4 oz of the Carrier Oil to your mixing bowl, slowly mix in ¼ cup Arrowroot Powder.

Mix until Arrowroot Powder is fully dissolved.
 STEP 2
Slowly add 1 oz Colorant or Pigment and mix thoroughly.

If you would like to have a thicker paint, add more Arrowroot powder, a little at a time, until you reach your desired consistency.
 STEP 3
Add 1 tbsp of Vitamin E and mix well.
STEP 4
Pour into a bottle or jar.  Your new Face Paint is now ready to use!









(all photos and how-to instructions are courtesy of Essential Wholesale & Labs, 2016)

Enjoy!
- Zephyr -

Manifestation vs Borrowing


Manifestation of abundance is a 5D practice.
Borrowing toward an end result is a 3D paradigm.
Manifestation involves paying the benefits forward.
Borrowing involves paying the benefits back.
Manifestation is a gift.
Borrowing is a debt.
These are the lessons learned on our recent excursion to Lightning in a Bottle. We manifested our acceptance, our placement, and our opportunity to do what we do best in the sharing of our gifts with humanity.
To be able to fully immerse our placement upon this path, we borrowed to cover our travel expenses. We were graciously abundant and profitable at this event ... but those profits will be going to repay what we borrowed to get there ... at the expense of having to cancel our event in Colorado in August.
That's a huge price to pay for a small business working its ass off to place its gifts in as many hands as possible. I'm not ungrateful for having traveled this particular path ... simply wiser.
Lesson learned and Paid in Full.
- Zephyr

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Essential Oils and Soapmaking ... making your smells "stick"


As an artisan soap maker, I belong to more than a few soap making and other body products groups on various social media sites. It is in one of these groups that I have stumbled across many, many folks who use essential oils in their soaps and then post inquiries about why their EOs fade after a period of time. They ask what can be done to make their scent blends "stick" or last longer and are often given advice that the addition of clay or other ingredients will help. Yes, clay will aid in making an EO "stick" in a bar of soap ... but that is not addressing the reason that a smell fades in the first place.
In the case of essential oils, whether or not your fragrance lingers in the finished product lies in what type of oil you are using to scent your soap batch.  Are you using a single Top Note, like Lemongrass?Or a Top/Middle Note, like Lavender?

EO Top Notes will give your products a burst of scent, but tend to fade after a period of time, after the terpines (the molecules that create the smell) have dissipated. In the case of soap, the EO that is closest to the surface will fade ... only to reappear as the bar is used.

Your Lemongrass soap scent has not "disappeared", its scent is simply no longer on the surface of your product. Lavender EO will last a bit longer because it's both a Top and a Middle Note ... it has longevity in its application and you will continue to smell it much longer than a simple Lemongrass EO scented soap product, though not nearly as long as it would if you included sandalwood or cedarwood in your EO blend.

In soap making instances, when faced with the addition of any number of essential oils to my finished product, I tend to include some sort of Base Note to my EO blend. Base Notes serve to anchor the entire EO blend, giving it longevity in the finished product.  In short, my soaps scented solely with essential oil blends last significantly longer than those scented with one or two EOs ... and the batch doesn't require the addition of some sort of clay to the recipe to anchor the scent profile.  
In the case of my recent kombucha soap recipe, I used 9 essential oils, balanced between Top, Middle, and Base Notes. It took a day or two to research the EOs I was using, as to their individual properties and how they fit together into the whole blend, and an hour or so to figure out the math to create the amount needed for a 12 pound batch, but in the end, the surface smell of this soap will outlast my simple Lavender & Lemongrass soap without the need to add clay to my recipe.
There is a wealth of information on the interwebs about basic aromatherapy and how to use EOs in your soapmaking (and other projects). In general, I keep the following in mind when creating my EO blends:

Top Notes (30% of your EO blend) The majority of essential oils are classified as top notes. Top notes evaporate fast. They are fresh and uplifting in nature.
Middle Notes (50% of your EO blend) Middle notes normally give that extra punch to the blend and have a balancing effect. They are very soft in nature. Base Notes (20% of your EO blend) Base notes are very heavy, the scent is very solid, and will linger for a long time.  These fragrances are very intense, rich and relaxing in nature. AromaWeb has some incredible information on their website about essential oils and their profiles ... they are one of my go-to places for instant information when I sit down to blend a new smell. Most importantly, they will tell you if your searched oil is a Top, Middle, or Base Note, what it blends well with, and max usage rates (if there are any). I know this is lengthy ... and I hope it helps at least one person in their soap making endeavors =)

Monday, February 1, 2016

It's been a really ... REALLY long time!

Wow.

2015 ... not really sure where it went ... but, it's gone.

For that matter, so is January of 2016.

We've been a bit busy.  Festivals and a few more festivals.  Unschooling our youngest.
And then the holiday season.

*poof*

Like an incredible dream from which you awaken, unable to remember the details yet knowing the whole experience was absolutely incredible.

yeah.  like that.

So ... I'm back ... in the saddle, so to speak.
Heading in a new direction with our little soap company, making enormously wonderful products.

And to kick off this whole "new perspective, new direction" sort of thing, I tweaked the recipe for our amenity soaps a smidge ... added a bit of natural, swirly color to the recipe.


 

Excited to see how it all turns out ...

Thursday, November 19, 2015

What's in YOUR Lotion?

In many of today's skin products, even the most seemingly benign ones made by "handcrafted artisans", you will find a few ingredients that may cause one to scratch their head in confusion. Words like "dimethicone" and "propylene glycol" and "phenoxyethanol" are commonplace on an ingredients listing for products primarily crafted using a pre-made lotion or soap base ... products claiming to be "natural" or "naturally crafted", but are not actually good for the skin you love to live in.

Dimethicone is a silicon based polymer. Simply put, it’s a silicon oil, man-made in the laboratory and used in personal care products as an anti-foaming agent, skin protectant, and skin or hair conditioner. And while it is an FDA-approved ingredient for use in lotions and other skin products, listing it as a "low level risk", for me, this is not a good ingredient to be using in your daily skin care. Like petroleum products, silicone oils can actually make dry skin worse over time. Instead of sinking into your skin and nourishing it from the inside out, like healthy ingredients do, it forms a sort of plastic-like barrier on the outside of skin.

Furthermore, that artificial coating on the outside of skin causes several issues:

* It traps everything under it—including bacteria, sebum, and impurities—which could lead to increased breakouts and blackheads
* The coating action actually prevents the skin from performing its normal activities—like sweating, temperature regulating, sloughing off dead skin cells, etc.
* Prolonged exposure to dimethicone can actually increase skin irritation, due to the coating property and because dimethicone is listed as a possible skin and eye irritant
* Those with sensitive or reactive skin are at risk of an allergic reaction to dimethicone
* On top of all this, dimethicone is a non-biodegradable chemical—bad for the environment
Phenoxyethanol is a man-made, synthetic preservative and while it is considered a safe alternative to parabens, this chemical has been restricted in Japan and the EU because of its potential mutagenic effects. Sadly, though they are effective against bugs, it seems most synthetic preservatives carry some health risks—especially since we are exposed to them everyday in several products.

Propylene Glycol is a form of mineral oil, an alcohol produced by fermentation of yeast and carbohydrates. In the skin and hair, propylene glycol works as a humescent, which causes retention of moisture content of skin or cosmetic products by preventing the escape of moisture or water. The Material Safety Data Sheet warns users to avoid skin contact with propylene glycol as this strong skin irritant can cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage. When used in body products, propylene glycol is what gives lotions their "slip" and their "moisturizing" properties ... leading to various known health effects, such as eye irritation, skin irritation, skin drying, defatting (dissolving natural fats).

The Face and Body Lotions made by Raison Éthique contain none of those ingredients ... in fact, our ingredients list is quite minimal. We use Vitamin E as a preservative and raw, organic beeswax as our "slipping" agent. Our ingredients do double duty as actual food ... and we don't have a single ingredient requiring a chemistry degree, hiding toward the bottom of the list in really small print.

In the very beginning, we thought about taking short-cuts - buying some of those fancy, pre-made lotion or shampoo bases that we could simply add scent to and slap our name on it ... but that's not really the type of product we want our customers to use ... and it's certainly not the type of product we want to sell.

And so ... we do it the old fashioned way ... we make our lotions by hand ... using temperature and beeswax to emulsify our products and vitamin e to preserve them. It takes a little longer ... but the end result is a product of which we can be proud ... with no synthetic additives undoing the benefits all the other ingredients provide to the human body.


Monday, October 6, 2014

What You May Find in Our Soaps ... and Why

The seasons can be harsh on the skin.. the products you put onto your skin are just as important that is why when making our soaps we chose the oils and butters very carefully. Not only do they have to be very high quality, they had to come from fair trade and sustainable resources.  Many of you may be aware of the orangutans and the destruction of their habitat for purposes of harvesting the Palm Oil that is used in many soap recipes ... it is for this very reason that we have reformulated all of our soap recipes so that they do not include Palm Oil ... it is not reasonable for us to utilize an ingredient when it involves the destruction of a species or natural habitat.

The ingredients used in our soaps are carefully selected.  You will not find milk products, tallow, lard, or hydrogenated anything in our ingredients listings. Many soap crafters incorporate the use of Crisco or tallow in their soaps, accompanied by low-grade corn, canola, or safflower oil ... ingredients found at your local grocery store.  These products have been chemically altered and we believe that they may not necessarily be the best ingredients for use on your skin.

This is the list of the biofriendly ingredients we use in our soaps and WHY we use them:

Coconut Oil, Olive Oil, Hempseed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil.


Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera) contains mostly fats, so it acts as an emollient providing a softening and soothing effect. Small wounds (caused by acne or pimples) also soften and heal quickly. Soothes itchiness and dryness (effective for dermatitis and psoriasis) Coconut oil contains medium chain fatty acids which are absorbed into the skin, where they can be directly utilized for nutrition and energy. This provides all the energy your skin needs to heal and maintain itself. Coconut Oil is also an antiseptic and microbial, is a powerful antioxidant to sooth away to sooth away winkles, and can help you look younger by improving the quality and appearance of skin through the elimination of dead skin cells. Our cold pressed coconut oil is sustainably sourced from Canada.




Olive oil (Olea Europa) is closer in chemical structure to the skin’s natural oils than any other naturally occurring oil. The regenerative power of olive oil also helps in stimulating the process of skin healing. It can be used to soothe and heal skin irritations. The same property also helps in treating sunburn. Just apply olive oil on the affected area directly. Is considered to be the best remedy for dry skin as it helps to exfoliate dead cells and flaky skin. Its moisturizing properties help to soften the skin texture, leaving you with beautiful glowing skin. Olive oil soap cleans your skin without stripping away the natural oils -- so you don't end up dry and flaky after it's use. Olive oil also allows the skin to sweat and shed cells naturally; commercial soaps that contain synthetic cleaners and fragrances can block your pores and cause irritation. Our cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil is sustainably sourced from Spain.




Hempseed oil (Cannibis Sativa) is one of the world’s most richest sources of polyunsaturated fats, including both of the essential fatty acids (Omega 3 & Omega 6) and GLA, making it an unequaled natural emollient and moisturizer.  Hempseed Oil helps heal: sunburn, scrapes, acne, burns, wrinkles, aging, drying or chapped skin, stretch marks and damaged skin! Clinical studies have shown that dry skin defects such as scaling or cracking can be reversed by skin care products containing Omega 6 Fatty Acids.


Hempseed Oil is one of the richest sources of EFA’s and Vitamin E in the entire plant kingdom.  These healing enzymes and vitamins can be absorbed directly into the skin to replenish the missing oils, instead of sitting on top, as do saturated oils.  With regular use, Hempseed Oil body care products can help slow down the effects of skin aging, reduce skin discomfort by soothing and restoring dry or damaged skin, and leave the skin smooth and moisturized.  The Hempseed Oil we use in our products is cold pressed and sustainably sourced from Canada.

Raw Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima) has been used to improve skin and hair both by ingestion and by topical use. Studies have shown that both intake and topical application of avocado oil can reduce the appearance of age spots, fine lines and wrinkles. Avocado oil is high in a substance called sterolin, which studies have shown to facilitate the softening of the skin and to reduce the incidence of age spots; Avocado oil is rich in antioxidants, making it useful for healing sun-damaged skin. Antioxidants like vitamins A, D and E in avocado cause the skin to be suppler, and are particularly good for dry or aged skin.  Our cold pressed, virgin avocado oil is sustainably sourced from Spain.



Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis) is beneficial when it comes to skin problems like sunburn, acne, dry skin and stretch marks. It also helps evade infections like warts, boils, athlete’s foot and chronic itching. Castor oil is rich in Ricinoleic acid (formally called 12-hydroxy-9-cis-octadecenoic acid is a fatty acid. It is an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid), which fights off the acne-causing bacteria. It effectively penetrates the skin layers, making it an excellent remedy for acne. Castor oil is a wonderful moisturizer and lends itself to boosting a soap's lathering abilities when combined with coconut oil. The highly concentrated fatty acids penetrate the skin easily, helping to remove dry patches and restoring hydration of the skin. Only a small amount of castor oil is required for this purpose.  Our expeller-pressed castor oil is sustainably sourced from India.



Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes Alba) is a fully refined, triglyceride composed of over 98% fatty acids with chain lengths of 20 carbons or more and also has higher quality triglyceride levels when compared to other vegetable oils.  In addition, it has three long chain fatty acids that were previously unknown prior to its discovery.


The feel of this oil is distinct from many other natural oils. This is due to the novel chemistry of its fatty acids, which contain more carbon atoms than fatty acids common in edible oils such as soy, almond, sunflower and olive. As a result, Meadowfoam Seed Oil provides good emolliency without being overly greasy.  It also has amazing moisturizing and rejuvenating capabilities, is very stable, and the high level of oxidative stability means Meadowfoam Seed Oil is less likely to go rancid, even when handled at high temperatures and in the presence of oxygen and other conditions that cause natural oils to degrade.

Our Meadowfoam Seed Oil is derived from the seeds of commercial meadowfoam (Limnanthes alba) fields in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Rosehip Seed Oil (Rosa Mosqueta) is widely regarded as one of the most important oils for fighting wrinkles and premature aging and repairing damaged skin.  It also has subsequently been identified as an effective treatment for stretch marks, eczema, psoriasis and dry and damaged hair.  The essential fatty acids in rosehip seed oil can help reduce scarring and promote skin regeneration. Its essential fatty acids are emollients and as such, improve skin flexibility and permeability. Emollients also aid in skin repair. Vitamin A may also play a part in rose hip oil's affect on scar tissue due to its ability to improve skin texture and tone. While it carries similar health benefits as our Meadowfoam Seed Oil, it is not nearly as stable.  Our cold pressed, rosehip seed oil is sustainably sourced from Chile.


Shea Butter (Vitellaria Paradoxa) is a super food for the skin and is hand-extracted from the nuts of the Shea tree, which grows in Ghana. What makes shea butter an extraordinary skin care and amazing body healer is its richness in precious constituents, which include unsaturated fats and a large proportion of “unsaponifiable” components, essential fatter acids, phytosterols, vitamin E and F, provitamin A and allantoin. All these are natural and make shea butter a super food for your skin and hair. Shea butter is one of the best anti-ageing agents for your skin by stimulating the production of collagen-strengthening your skin; keeping the pores of your skin and hair shaft clear. Shea butter helps to make your skin more supple, alive, nourished and radiant.




Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao) contains a number of different antioxidants that can kill off a wide range of different free radicals and superoxides, including hydrogen peroxide.  It also contains phytochemicals (posh name for plant chemicals) such as flavanoids that are also strong antioxidants. Polyphenols are very effective at neutralizing free radicals, and the cocoa mass polyphenols are particularly effective.  In fact, cocoa butter contains a much higher antioxidant concentration then even blueberries and other so-called superfoods.


It has been scientifically proven that cocoa butter will prevent skin degradation due to the harmful effects of the UV light in the rays of the sun - UV radiation generates free radicals that are very effective at destroying skin.  Just look at the effects of sunburn!  However, there is more to cocoa butter than just that, since it contains a large proportion of minerals including calcium, potassium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, copper and iron, all of which are in a highly bioavailable form that render them more effective that commercial vitamin supplements. Not only that, though. It also contains tryptophan, involved in the formation of serotonin, the 'feel good' neurotransmitter, and also dopamine and phenylethylamine, all good substances. It is a brain food as well as food for your skin.
Sodium Hydroxide, to put into layman's terms, is lye.  When mixed with liquid, whether water, goat's milk, tea, or any other form of liquid, a chemical reaction is created which is essential and absolutely necessary to turn butters and oils into soap.  Bar soap cannot be created without the incorporation of sodium hydroxide.  The beauty of this highly volatile ingredient is that, provided the weights and measurements are precisely calculated, there is absolutely no lye remaining in the finished product.


We create exceptional, unrefined, biofriendly products that incorporate plant and mineral ingredients of natural origins in their simplest forms ... products that you will feel as good about using on your family as you do yourself.

We seek out natural ingredients that are as good for the earth as they are for your skin. All ingredients used in our products are researched as to their origins, how they are derived, and what impact they will have on our lives and on our planet.

We believe that every place in the world is local to some where ... and consciously work to ensure that the monies we spend on our ingredients  will provide the greatest benefit to the communities that the sales of these ingredients support.

We continually explore new methods of processing while maintaining the quality found in small batch manufacturing ... even for tried and true ingredients, there is always an ingredient that is of greater benefit to our bodies.

As our world evolves, so will our our company and our products ... continually striving to bring to you products that deliver outstanding results.

Our Philosophy is simple:  when it's time to leave, make sure that what you leave behind is better than what you originally found.